Wild Coast Accommodation and Info | Transkei | Eastern Cape | South Africa

A Wild Coast (Transkei) information resource with accommodation, attractions, photos, maps, history, travel tips, climate, GPS waypoints, interesting stories and town and environment information.

The Wild Coast (Transkei):

The Eastern Cape Wild Coast of South Africa offers peaceful, laid-back holidays away from the tourist hoards with enough footprint-free beaches, lazy lagoons, natural wonders and rocky headlands for everyone to enjoy. Accommodation ranges from camping, bed & breakfast and self-catering apartments to hotel luxury.

Hole in the Wall on the Wild Coast

The Wild Coast originally encompassed the rural 'Transkei' region only, and stretched from the Kei River in the south to the Mthamvuma River, 250km to the north. Included in the Wild Coast region today, are the pretty seaside villages of the Jikeleza Route that run south along the coastline between the Kei River and East London.

The Transkei is so far off the beaten tourist track that it has remained relatively untouched and unspoilt. Apart from the larger towns of Port St Johns and Coffee Bay, most settlements north of the Kei River are made up of only a handful of fisherman's cottages, with accommodation in the form of a lone backpackers hostel or hotel.

Scenically, the Transkei is at its best on the coast, the roads to which lead through unforgettable scenery that offers interesting glimpses into the way of life of a people living in a manner totally different to that of those in Europe or America. It is a place of spirit and adventure; of rugged coastline rich in diversity and wilderness; of sweeping estuaries and beautiful sandy beaches broken by rocky headlands. Many of the rivers and villages here have names known only to the adventurous few who have been there.

The Wild Coast is well known for its magnificent hiking trails, including the legendary "Strandloper Trail", which begins near Kei Mouth and passes through Morgan Bay, Haga Haga and the Jikeleza Route villages, before terminating at Gonubie. Wrecks along this stretch of rugged coastline will stir the imagination and intrepid explorers will be thrilled by the pontoon adventure, as vehicles and passengers are ferried across the river at Kei Mouth. Famous landmarks include "the Gates" at Port St Johns, Hole in the Wall, Magwa Falls, Waterfall Bluff, the Jacaranda shipwreck, Nongqawuse's pools, the Morgan Bay cliffs and bead beach at Double Mouth, where it is thought the Santo Espirito floundered in 1608. It's the perfect place to do a little treasure hunting for Ming porcelain and Carnelian beads.

Witness a spectacular sight during the winter months, as shoals of sardines attract a frenzy of activity from gannets, seals, dolphins and predatory fish as they migrate up the Wild Coast. Vantage points along the coastline, such as the cliffs at Coffee Bay and Morgan Bay are great places to do some dolphin and whale watching. Humpback and Southern Right Whales migrate from the Antarctic to the shores of South Africa to calve and are often seen from these vantage points.

The area has always been a firm favourite with anglers, offering excellent fishing grounds both at the coast and in the estuaries, particularly at the mouths of the larger rivers like the Kei (Kei Mouth) and Mzimvubu (Port St Johns) which are navigable for several kilometres upstream. Launching a ski boat for a day of deep-sea fishing is an exhilarating start to a wonderful day out at sea with magnificent views of the coast. Other activities on the Wild Coast include golf, deep-sea fishing, dolphin and whale watching, fly fishing, mountain biking, hiking and nature trails, rock climbing, abseiling, surfing, canoeing, horse riding, game viewing and bird watching.

A unique and much loved quirk of the Transkei are the frequent sightings visitors have of cows on the beach. Even though beaches have no grass or drinking water, herds of cattle still love coming down to the beach to sleep, relax and chew the cud. They are easily approachable and make great photographic subjects.

The environment of the Wild Coast remains largely untouched by developers, leaving a wealth of scenic beauty for the adventurous visitor to discover. This coupled with a great climate, hot summers with mild & dry winters, makes it an ideal tourist destination.

Uncrowded beaches

Wild Coast Accommodation:

Whilst there is vast range of accommodation available to the visitor, tourism is still a small-scale industry in many places, with some villages consisting of only one hotel or backpackers and a few fishermen's cottages. It is only in the 'larger' villages and towns, that accommodation becomes more varied, ranging from hotels, game farms, guest lodges, backpackers, bed & breakfast and self-catering apartments to caravan and camping sites.

Visit our Wild Coast Accommodation page to view a full list.

Hotels:

Just because the Wild Coast is off the beaten track doesn't mean you have to sleep in a tent. The Wild Coast boasts some excellent family hotels in magical locations with enough on offer to keep the children busy while you settle down with a book and work on your tan.

Self Catering and Bed & Breakfast options:

An option favoured by many families is to rent a self catering house or apartment. Many people own holiday homes along the Wild Coast and rent them out as self catering houses rather than have them stand empty when they are not there. It's a much more private option and one is provided with all the amenities and space one is accustomed to at home. The few Bed & Breakfasts scattered along the Wild Coast are ideal for couples looking to get away and enjoy a few days of relaxation in comfortable accommodation and beautiful surroundings.

Nature Reserves:

The Wild Coast is blessed with many fine coastal nature reserves. From Double Mouth and its picture-postcard campsite in the south the names roll off the tongue as one heads north; Dwesa, Cwebe, Hluleka, Silaka and Mkambati are all fantastic reserves that between them boast lush coastal forests, expansive grasslands, meandering rivers and a diverse coastline.

Caravanning and Camping:

So many of the places along the coastline are so far off the beaten track that they are without running water or electricity, the one thing they do have however is magnificent scenery and an abundance of fish. So it's no surprise then, that South African fishermen have a long tradition of camping on the Wild Coast. It's a tradition that's still going strong, as attested to by the numerous caravan parks and campsites along the coast. So forget the expensive hotels, load up your fishing gear and tow your off-road caravan down to the coast!

Cultural Villages:

An interesting alternative is the handful of community run camps and lodges scattered along the length of the coast such as iKhamanga at Qolora and Amadiba Adventures near the Wild Coast Sun. It's the best way to support the local communities and you'll come away with a thoroughly authentic experience.

Backpackers:

An excellent intro into the variety of adventure options in the locality, from surfing to gorge jumping, is via the backpacker lodge network. Even if backpacking is not your style, the most up to the minute info is always available around the bar of your local backpacker's lodge, so a visit is always worthwhile.

Rocky headlands

Environment:

Many impressive rivers that rise in the Drakensberg empty into the sea along the Wild Coast. In the southern-most parts of the region, where low hills, sprinkled with traditional huts, roll down into a forest-fringed shoreline, the rivers tend to be mature and are characterized by wide floodplains. But in the rugged north, where young rivers find their path to the sea blocked by massive cliffs, many, like Waterfall Bluff, simply leap over the rocky crags and plunge into the surf below.

About half the coastline comprises indigenous forest, large parts of which remain undescribed by botanists. In fact, many forest species that were previously unknown to science have been discovered in places such as Umtamvuna and Mkambati. About 900 forest and grassland species from the Wild Coast region have been identified as having commercial, traditional or homeopathic value.

Small sandy bays and long stretches of open beaches are often found near the mouths of large rivers, such as the Kei, Mthatha, Mbashe and Mzimvuba (Long Beach at the Mthatha river mouth was voted the best beach in South Africa by Getaway Magazine). There are also many smaller rivers which, owing to their protected sources in the coastal forests, have much less siltation than the larger rivers, which drain vast tracts of land where poor farming practices are in place. Estuaries, bays and headlands are plentiful, whilst rocky shores predominate, be they smooth wave-cut platforms with jagged and un-even surfaces or precipitous cliffs that plunge into the sea.

The waters off the Wild Coast are home to a diverse array of sea-life, as they are fed by the warm Agulhus Current in the summer and an occasional off-shoot of the cold Benguela Current in the winter months. It is this sliver of cold water that pushes its way up the coast in winter, that brings with it the famous Sardine Run. A great migration of Sardine/Pilchard up the coast, hotly pursued by gannets, sharks, gamefish and dolphins.

Large mangrove communities occur at six estuaries on the Wild Coast and the mangrove community at Kobonqaba, just north of the Kei River, is the southern-most mangrove community in Africa. Three species of mangrove are found on the Wild Coast: the white mangrove (Avicennia marina), red mangrove (Rhizophora mucronata) and black mangrove (Bruguiera gymnorrhiza).

There are many coastal nature reserves, run by Eastern Cape Parks, which dot the Wild Coast. The 3900ha Dwesa Nature Reserve comprises coastal forest, open grassland, winding rivers and a diverse coastline. On the northern banks of the Mbashe River is Dwesa's sister reserve, the 2200ha Cwebe conservation area. The Hluleka and Mkambati Nature Reserves take their names from the rivers on which they are situated, and are both part of popular Wild Coast hiking trails.

The inaccessibility of the 'Transkei' portion of Wild Coast has contributed to it remaining largely undeveloped. Tar roads serve only two towns in the region and most economic activities take place some distance from the coast. Approximately 1.5 million, predominantly isiXhosa speaking people, live in the 9 magisterial districts of the Transkei. Small holiday resorts have been established at places like Qolora, Mazeppa Bay, Wavecrest, Hole in the Wall and Coffee Bay. About 8000 people reside in the coastal town of Port St Johns.

The scenic beauty of the Wild Coast, coupled with its rich cultural heritage, make the region ideal for the development of a strong tourism industry. In fact, tourism has been identified as one of the cornerstones of the proposed Wild Coast Spatial Development Initiative. But, the virtual collapse of local administrations and environmental threats like the proposed Xolobeni dune mining project are some of the major issues that will have to be tackled by this initiative. The challenge will be to bring about much needed investment and development that will benefit local communities and the region as a whole, without compromising the rich natural resource base.

Adapted from the "Wild Coast" article in the 2003 issue of the Coastcare Fact Sheet Series, an initiative by the Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism (DEAT) towards implementation of the White Paper for Sustainable Coastal Development in South Africa.

Cattle on the beach & the Jacaranda shipwreck

The People:

The Transkei is home to several of the Xhosa tribes; it is a green and pleasant grassland stretching inland from the coast to the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains. Living in the south is the Gcaleka section of the Xhosa tribe, in the middle the Tembu and Bomvana tribes, and in the north the Pondo and Mpondomise tribes. Smaller tribal groups include the Cele, Xesibe and the Mfengu. Each tribe has its own distinguishing costumes, colours, beads and articles of clothing. Red and orange are the favourite colours of the Xhosa, Thembu and Bomvana. Light blue is the favoured colour of the closely related Pondo and Mpondomise tribes.

The people are pastoralists and cattle in particular are very important to them. Cows were introduced to the Wild Coast by the Xhosa during their migration to South Africa between 600 and 700 AD. These animals have played an important social and economic role in the development of their society and are used as a bride's dowry. The number of cattle held by a village or individual determines much of their importance to the rest of the world.

The countryside is dotted with thatched rondavel type huts, all built with doors facing east. The land is communally owned and huts are grouped in family units (umzi). The people grow mielies (corn) and keep cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, geese and chickens. Men along the coast supplement their income by catching fish and crayfish, which they sell to tourists. People tend to wear western style clothing these days and this is especially prevalent amongst the younger generation. Traditional clothing is still worn at ceremonies and tourists visiting between late autumn and early spring will be sure to see the outfits worn by the "abakwetha", boys who are undergoing initiation into manhood.

Witchcraft and superstition play a large part in the lives of the people, and they are want to believe in creatures such as the uthikoloshe, a mischievous hairy goblin who can only be seen by children. Christianity is well rooted, but traditional religious practices continue to flourish and there is belief in a supreme being, a creator of everything, known variously as umDali, Qamata or uThixo. The ancestors are venerated and it is believed that failure to placate the dead will result in misfortune. For this purpose, advice should be sought from an "igqhira" (diviner / witchdoctor) who can communicate with the spirit world. Most witchdoctors are women who have undergone a lengthy apprenticeship.

History of the Transkei:

Approximately 500 to 1200 years ago Bantu speaking peoples began to settle along the East Coast of Southern Africa. The area was home to nomadic San and Khoi people who eventually became integrated into the Xhosa tribes and brought with them the three characteristic clicks that are found in the language today.

In the late 1700's the Xhosa speaking tribes were beginning to feel the squeeze on their territories. Refugees were fleeing Shaka and his Zulu Impis (warriors) in the North and there were sporadic wars with the Boers in the East and British to the South.

The 'cattle killing' of 1856 and the resulting famine devastated the Xhosa and their resistance to the colonial forces fell. On the advice of the prophetess Nongqawuse, people consumed or destroyed all of their cattle and crops. She foretold that all who did not, together with all the whites were to be swept into the sea by a strong wind on the 18th of February 1857.

After the Ninth Frontier War the area was incorporated into the Cape Provincial Administration. It was never really populated by European settlers because of its war-like reputation and was left largely to the indigenous peoples.

The region was given nominal autonomy in 1963, under the 'separate development' policies of Apartheid South Africa. 'Self government' and 'Full independence' followed in 1976 and the area became known as the Transkei (meaning: the land beyond the Kei River).

The newly-formed Transkei state was not recognised internationally and it remained a diplomatically isolated, politically unstable, one-party state until after South Africa's first free and fair elections in 1994, when it became part of the Eastern Cape Province.

Holidaymakers on the Morgan Bay beach

Climate:

Rainfall along the Wild Coast is high; approximately 1000mm falls here annually, predominantly in Spring and Autumn. Temperatures in Summer (January) average about 28 degrees C (High) and 17 Degrees (Low), and in Winter (June) about 20 degrees C (High) and 8 Degrees (Low).

Summer:
Summer lasts from mid-October to mid-February and is characterized by hot, sunny weather and thunderstorms that clear really quickly.

Autumn:
Autumn lasts from mid-February to April and is characterized by little rain and warm weather, ideal for travelling and sightseeing.

Winter:
Winter lasts from May to July and is characterized by great weather, with mild sunny days and no wind or rain.

Spring:
Spring lasts from August to mid-October and sees a warming in temperatures.

When to visit:
There are two schools of thought: Some people prefer Winter, on account of the mild weather and sunny days. Others prefer the summer months as the best opportunity to enjoy the diverse ecology, and in particular the butterflies and bird life, not to mention local succulents and wildflowers. The December school holidays are a very busy time for the Wild Coast, and for most vacation destinations in the country, so
advance bookings and enquiries are a good idea then.

Map, Travel Tips and GPS info:

The Wild Coast lies in the eastern half of South Africa's Eastern Cape Province. It starts with the coastal towns along the Jikeleza Route, 10km north east of East London, and stretches approximately 270 kilometres (170 miles) to the banks of the Mthamvuna River, just south of Port Edward.

Wild Coast (Transkei) Map:

The map seen on the right is a basic sample. The fully detailed, GPS-compatible, waterproof map of the entire Wild Coast is widely available from bookshops and sports stores in most major centers, and Wild Coast Holiday Association resorts.

The retail price is around R75 (around $10) and can be purchased on-line at www.themaps.co.za.

"Your Wild Coast map - it's magnificent"
Don Pinnock, Editor, GETAWAY Magazine.

"Truly an excellent map..."
Jeff Pieres, Historian.

"The map has proved a tremendous hit"
Wild Coast Holiday Association.

"A MUST-HAVE for travellers in the area"
Janna Cooper, Strandloper Ecotourism Board.

Retail and trade enquiries for the Eastern Cape and KZN: phone Gavin Stewart at 083 708 2719... or email morstew@iafrica.com

Travel Tips:

1. The N2 highway, the Jikeleza Route and the roads to Port St Johns and Coffee Bay are tarred, but the Coffee Bay road can be quite potholed in places.
2. All the other roads that go from the N2 to the coast (in the former Transkei area) are gravel. To find out the current condition of the roads you plan on driving, phone ahead and get an update from your accommodation provider.
3. Potholes and animals, such as cows, goats, donkeys, sheep and geese, are a hazard on all of the rural roads, so slow down and take in the scenery.
4. Dirt roads are rarely marked, so take along a good map (see below) or GPS device.
5. Be on the lookout for reckless drivers, especially along the N2 highway.
6. Fill your tank at every reasonable opportunity as fuel supplies are scarce in some areas. Some hotels and resorts do have limited supplies so phone ahead.
7. When it rains, it often rains hard and for weeks on end, so keep off the 4x4 tracks, as many become impassible, even to 4x4s.
8. Carry water, tools and try and imagine what it would be like to break down, without assistance, for miles around.

When to travel:

Always travel during the day, it's safer and there is less chance of striking a large animal.

What to pack:

Appropriate clothing for the season (see climate), walking shoes, sun block, hats, beach umbrellas, beach towels and something warm for unexpected temperature changes. Pack insect repellent if you plan on doing a lot of walking / hiking as tick bite fever can put you out of action for at least a week.

Emergency numbers:

047 5052662 - Tourist Safety Unit
10111 - South African Police Services
10177 - Ambulance Emergency Medical Services
112 - Vodacom / Virgin / MTN Emergency Number
112 - Cell C Roadside Emergency Number (contract subscribers should dial 148)

Petrol Stations:

There are petrol stations all along the N2 and Jikeleza Route. Petrol stations can also be found in Lusikisiki, Port St Johns, Coffee Bay, Mqanduli, Elliotdale, Willowvale, Centane, Kei Mouth and Mooiplaas. Some of the hotels and resorts have petrol pumps as well, so call ahead to find out.

Wild Coast (Transkei) GPS Waypoints / Co-ordinates:

Magazine Articles:

Getaway Articles:

Wild seas, friendly folk - January 2009
Tranquil beaches, shady forests and secluded hideaways lay in wait for Khumo Ntoane on the old Transkei's Wild Coast.

The Wild Coast with the family - November 2007
The Wild Coast is probably the finest family holiday destination in South Africa. It's ruggedness and inaccessibility have kept its shoreline pristine, but that wildness has also led to it being a graveyard of ships. Justin Fox went in search of great family hotels - and the wrecks that surround them.

Where the wilderness never ends - December 2003
After a search of the Wild Coast for the finest beach, Don Pinnock finally hit perfection overload and went fishing.

Cycling the hills of Nongqawuse - September 1998
There is a section of South Africa's coastline that does not have paved roads, fancy holiday homes on the dunes or a Pick 'n Pay round the corner. It's a place where ancient magic is still a living force, where the clash of spears on shields still rings through the valleys and where the carcasses of hundreds of wrecked ships litter the shore. Don Pinnock went exploring the Wild Coast the slow way - on foot and by mountain bike.

On foot in Pondo country - September 1998
There is a section of South Africa's coastline that does not have paved roads, fancy holiday homes on the dunes or a Pick 'n Pay round the corner. It's a place where ancient magic is still a living force, where the clash of spears on shields still rings through the valleys and where the carcasses of hundreds of wrecked ships litter the shore. Don Pinnock went exploring the Wild Coast the slow way - on foot and by mountain bike.

What's new on the Wild Coast? - May 1998
Remember the crayfish, the warm waters, family hotels and the cheap holidays on the Transkei Wild Coast? On a journey between the Kei and Mthamvuna rivers, David Rogers visited places where the memories lingered and some where they did not.

All clear on the Eastern Front - July 1996
Mention 'Wild Coast' and many people will think of pot-holed roads and unpredictable standards. David Rogers discovered that if you stick south of the Kei you can find similar scenery and enough comfort for even the tame at heart.

Daily Dispatch Articles:

Wild Coast Articles
Articles written by the Dispatch @venture Team following their visit to Wild Coast

Other Wild Coast Websites:

Wikitravel has some Wild Coast wisdom to share, check out Jeff's Wild Coast website for all the latest news and views or visit Sustaining The Wild Coast to see how you can help preserve this unique coastline.

Looking for a wild hiking trail or a mellow meander? Then try the Strandloper Trail or the Wild Coast Walk. Eastern Cape Parks run several nature reserves along the coast so stop by and have a look.

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Looking for more quality South African websites? Then check out the South African Tourism Websites section on this website.

Travel safely, be responsible and remember, don't take the 'Wild' out of the Wild Coast.

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